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Pony is a welcome addition to the Armadale area. Its green-tiled facade gives way to a sunny front room that bursts with good looks. Upstairs are high ceilings and lush blue velvet banquettes.

Staff know what’s what, putting up cocktails such as a rum, passionfruit and vanilla concoction that finds balance through brown butter. The kitchen is good with all manner of meat. The juicy beef burger with raclette and caramalised onion is the dish to order, while perky fermented chilli sauce brightens chicken skewers.

There’s comfort in soupy chickpeas with tomatoes and harissa, or baked spinach and ricotta dumplings. Dessert might be budino, the creamy pudding, layered with caramel sauce and a dollop of whipped cream. A few perfect bites of sticky decadence.