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Soak up the endless summer at St Siandra at The Spit

With knock-out views, a private stretch of sand and boats bobbing on blue waters, this new waterfront spot channels Mediterranean vibes.

Terry Durack
Terry Durack

Take a seat by an open window that looks out over the marina at St Siandra.
1 / 8Take a seat by an open window that looks out over the marina at St Siandra.Edwina Pickles
Clarence River baby octopus skewers.
2 / 8Clarence River baby octopus skewers.Edwina Pickles
Tahini with fermented green chillies and flatbread.
3 / 8Tahini with fermented green chillies and flatbread.Edwina Pickles
Spring Bay mussels with green pepper salsa verde.
4 / 8Spring Bay mussels with green pepper salsa verde.Edwina Pickles
Harissa snapper fish and chips with tartare.
5 / 8Harissa snapper fish and chips with tartare.Edwina Pickles
St Siandra’s own private strip of sand.
6 / 8St Siandra’s own private strip of sand.Edwina Pickles
Scallops a la Rockefeller.
7 / 8Scallops a la Rockefeller.Edwina Pickles
Pineapple pavlova with creme fraiche and molasses.
8 / 8Pineapple pavlova with creme fraiche and molasses.Edwina Pickles

14/20

Mediterranean$$

This sort of place is usually hidden behind security gates and tall walls. You might catch a glimpse, but entry is only for members of some sort of club.

So it’s a very nice feeling to be able to just walk into St Siandra and take a seat by an open window that looks out over the marina of the Middle Harbour Yacht Club and eastern shores of The Spit. The view is a knock-out, from a tiny stretch of sand populated by a handful of beach umbrellas, to boats bobbing on blue waters.

Clarence River baby octopus skewers.
Clarence River baby octopus skewers.Edwina Pickles
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Mitchell Davis and Gavin Gray, former chefs who now run Great Meats and Great Eats, and third partner, builder Andrew Phelan, lease the space from the club. Studio Sally Taylor has maritimed the long, golden room without going overboard – tables are bevelled, white metal chairs are topped with candy-striped cushions, and upstairs is home to events space the Bluebird Room, with some pretty cool views from the deck.

The name comes from the dual Sydney to Hobart winner, Siandra. The club’s yachts have also inspired the names of Kurtis Bosley’s cocktails, from the Flying Cloud and Heaven Can Wait to Champagne Charlie ($18), a refreshing, if sweet, spritz of limoncello and prosecco.

Tahini with fermented green chillies and flatbread.
Tahini with fermented green chillies and flatbread.Edwina Pickles

Hiring Sam McCallum, former head chef of Surry Hills’ Nomad, was a smart move. He’s comfortable with the generous, warmly spiced flavours of the Mediterranean and Middle East and seemingly feels no need to complicate them. It means a light, creamy tahini ($18) emulsified with olive oil and lemon juice drizzled with fermented green chilli is perfect with a puffy, blistered round of potato flatbread ($12) from the dual fuel Gozney dome oven.

It also means a herb salad ($10) is packed with parsley, spiked with strips of beautifully aromatic preserved lemon and pickled guindilla chillies. And that chips come with garlicky toum ($10), and broccolini with labne ($14).

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At the sweet end, it means a squat round of crunchy pavlova comes with a heart of creme fraiche and a topknot of sweet, preserved pineapple ($18), and watermelon granita comes with coconut sorbet and mint jelly ($18).

A few kayaks paddle past, beyond the yachts. Kids build trenches in the sand, and blue-uniformed Marine Rescue folk trek down the pier. It might be nearly April, but it feels like an endless summer holiday in here, which calls for chilled, crisp, clean, citrusy 2022 Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough ($16/$25/$72). The wines, put together by Adam George, are so summery they should be wearing sunscreen.

It might be nearly April, but it feels like an endless summer holiday in here.

There’s lamb shoulder on the menu, but a day like this calls for seafood. Twelve fleshy, lightly steamed Spring Bay mussels ($24) sit happily on the half shell, sauced with a moreish roasted green pepper salsa verde. The go-to dish is a toss-up between the mussels and skewers of coal-grilled baby Clarence River octopus from the “On Charcoal” list. They’re a smoky, oily treat, simply grilled and doused in a scarlet puddle of fermented tomato (please bottle and sell) and Mount Zero’s splendid Frantoio extra virgin.

Spaghetti with Skull Island prawns ($36) lacks excitement in spite of good ingredients. It feels bitsy with garlic and chilli, yet still bland. Similarly, good New Zealand snapper is used for the fish and chips ($34) but after marinating in harissa and coating in minimal batter, it feels a little pasty.

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Pineapple pavlova with creme fraiche and molasses.
Pineapple pavlova with creme fraiche and molasses.Edwina Pickles

Take into account that this is lunch, in the endless summer that is Sydney in March, as the sea breeze ruffles the parsley salad, and the smoky, sunny flavours make you think you’re at a barbie. Dinner in the dark of winter might be another kettle of fish altogether, requiring the stamina of a yachtie keen to be out and about no matter the weather.

In the meantime, St Siandra unlocks a little section of the Middle Harbour for all to enjoy. As long as the sun shines, we’ll make hay.

The low-down

Drinks: Local beers, signature cocktails named for famous Sydney yachts, and a neat Australian and Italian-led wine list.

Vibe: ♫♫ We’re all going on a summer holiday ♫♫

Go-to dish: Spring Bay mussels with green pepper salsa, $24

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Terry DurackTerry Durack is the chief restaurant critic for The Sydney Morning Herald and Good Food.

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Original URL: https://www.watoday.com.au/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/soak-up-the-endless-summer-at-st-siandra-at-the-spit-20230323-p5cul9.html