This low-ceilinged, spotlit hotel dining room is smartly presented with comfy perspex chairs, wood-panelled walls, booths, open kitchen and a striking glass module for wine bottles that cleverly separates the bar from the dining room. The food is just as smart as its surroundings, with entrees including the likes of guanciale-wrapped scallops on clouds of skordalia and port-soaked raisins; and a buttery, flaky pithivier of forest mushrooms - like a mini pie - with a swirl of emerald parsley oil and a sprinkle of porcini dust. Main courses, too, are very look-at-me, especially crisp-skinned snapper paired with the earthy nuttiness of celeriac puree, and an allspice duck breast presented on white polenta alongside tart, shredded apple. Only the somewhat impersonal service lags behind, with staff seeming, strangely, often absent. A dessert of caramel-filled eclairs is lifted considerably by its accompanying glass of chocolate sauce and a lovely maple walnut ice-cream.