Osteria Balla
15/20
Italian$$$
Behind a glass frontage and with a wall of windows, sparkling tiled columns and a striking geometric ceiling, Balla is fun and futuristic, not to mention scenic. While it’s hardly a humble nonna’s kitchen, the menu champions traditional Italian cooking in true Stefano Manfredi style. Napkins are laid on laps and antipasti arrive. A baked chickpea tart is sublimely simple with shaved pecorino and Parma ham, no fanciness required. The tried and tested mix of chilli and garlic scores again in squid ink tagliolini with spanner crab, while a dish of wood-grilled prawns with baby fennel, tomato and almond pesto has you wondering whether Italy might not be the true home of shrimp on the barbie. There’s no shortage of tempting sweet things - including a dessert tasting plate - but there are almost as many cheese options. Oh, the hard choices in life.
And … Enjoy a fast feed before a show and/or panino at the Aperitivi Bar.
THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Contemporary and creative with a casino backdrop.
Best bit Fresh, flavoursome food, rather than fancy.
Worst bit Intimacy gets lost in the open space.
Continue this series
Citibank Dining Program New South Wales restaurantsUp next
Otto Ristorante Sydney
Now in its 14th year of dishing up high-level Italian cooking, Otto is clearly no humble osteria.
Pilu at Freshwater
Pilu sits very happily on the cusp of old- and new-world, looking both forward and back.
Previous
Muse Restaurant
Theatrics come with the territory at Muse Restaurant, and it’s a joy to watch chef Troy Rhoades-Brown at work in the expansive open kitchen.
From our partners
Original URL: https://www.watoday.com.au/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/osteria-balla-20141013-3hwht.html