NewsBite

Advertisement

Triple-threat Hubert adds fourth treat with Bridge Bon Appetit

Myffy Rigby
Myffy Rigby

Hubert's new mezzanine: Bridge Bon Appetit.
Hubert's new mezzanine: Bridge Bon Appetit.Cole Bennetts

French$$$

Hubert, the high flying, hot ticket neo-trad French restaurant Sydney fell head over heels for last year, is what you might call your ultimate triple threat.

There's a private room that you can hire out for screenings and events (has anyone ever screened Delicatessen in here? If they haven't, they should – with a live performance from a saw-playing clown for extra points). There's the Pincer Bar for pre-dinner drinks (or just drinks-drinks) and Hubert, the restaurant proper. But there's always been a problem. This place is too popular for its own good.

The Pincer Bar is seating only so once it's full you're out on the street waiting until a table becomes free. A general rule of thumb here is expect to eat at nanna (5pm-6pm) or rockstar o'clock (9.30pm-onwards). Unless, of course, you were smart enough to roll six or more deep, in which case they take reservations. But now, there's a fourth threat.

Advertisement
Roe boats with sea urchin, avruga​ and ocean trout roe.
Roe boats with sea urchin, avruga​ and ocean trout roe.Cole Bennetts

Owners Anton Forte, Stefan Forte and Jason Scott along with head chef Daniel Pepperell have opened yet another level to their venue – a seemingly never-ending treasure trove of new areas to be turned into strange little bars. The latest, which they've called Bridge Bon Appetit, is stationed above the restaurant on a thin mezzanine.

Run by bartender James Irvine, BBA offers drinks with their fancy hats on. Take the Leyenda – a frothy shake-up of mezcal and chartreuse (what could possibly go wrong?) with a lick of pistachio. It's elegant, dry and as pared back as two of the world's most trouble-making spirits can be together.

There's a smoked blueberry number on there too, which also involves fig and caramel which I'll be back to try. Maybe I'll kidnap Maggie Beer for a round – it sounds right up her alley.

The Leyenda cocktail combines mezcal and chartreuse.
The Leyenda cocktail combines mezcal and chartreuse.Cole Bennetts
Advertisement

Sommelier Andy Tyson's natural-leaning wine list, written specifically for that one long stretch of room, is probably my favourite thing this week, though. Mainly for his description of the Tinto 'TN' Spanish bordeaux blend, which takes home the prize for most onomatopoeic wine description of the year: "Vivid, limpid, punk rock? Urgh."

Like everything else here, the snacks are unapologetic. "Roe boats" hold equal parts avruga​ and ocean trout roe, finished with a lobe of sea urchin. It's a full frontal oceanic attack – a slap in the face from an angry sea all set in an elegant crisp.

Saucisson sec and pickles is a nice little thinking treat, though that French-style pork sausage could spend a little more time air-drying for flavour and chew.

Pot au feu with veal tongue and bone marrow.
Pot au feu with veal tongue and bone marrow.Cole Bennetts

The real clincher, though, is the pot au feu – if that doesn't stop you in your tracks, nothing will. A thick slice of poached veal tongue with green onions and dutch carrots, perfectly turned baby turnips and a section of bone marrow bathing in a spoon coating jus is a perfect ode to dining solo by candlelight. A glass of that Spanish bordeaux blend is the only company you need.

Advertisement

Try this The salt cod beignets – a sort of French salt cod doughnut – are the perfect set-up, pre-dinner.

Bottom line Beignets ($14); saucisson sec (($16); pot au feu ($35).

Continue this series

Cosy spots to take your valentine in Sydney
Up next
Warm hummus with freshly baked taboon Palestinian bread.

Kepos & Co

This new offshoot of Kepos Street Kitchen channels Middle Eastern food into a classy mix of small feasts.

Previous
Skewered lamb rump with grilled flatbread and a squeeze of lemon.

Neighbourhood fun at Ron's Upstairs, Redfern

It's all care, all responsibility, with the aesthetic of neither at this new Redfern restaurant.

See all stories
Myffy RigbyMyffy Rigby is the former editor of the Good Food Guide.

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement

Original URL: https://www.watoday.com.au/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/bridge-bon-appetit-review-20170925-gynyh6.html