Dust, roll, fold, dust, roll, fold. It's a simple principle when making pasta but few do it better than Eugenio Maiale. Before service each day, he and his brigade make the day's pasta and gnocchi on the long, slender marble surface that, come evening, turns into a communal dining table. For those who miss out on a pew in the moodily lit front room, a possie in the enclosed courtyard is not a bad consolation prize. Creamy buffalo milk burrata is surrounded by a salad of red grapes and pickled shallots, while slim discs of fried salami sink into creamy polenta. But what you're really here for is the fad-free, fabulous pasta - seductively silky, slim pappardelle ribbons with a robust, slow-braised beef ragu, or stracci (rag pasta) sweetly teamed with southern calamari in a sea of cherry tomatoes, raisins and pine nuts. You're also here, by the way, for a classic cremino of chocolate mousse, hazelnut and Italian meringue.