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With all the mission statements flying around, it can be tough to know what to expect at the Park Hyatt’s flagship restaurant, but two years into James Viles’ tenure, things are becoming clearer. Call it Australian cooking, driven by produce and just a little mythologising.

Take the likes of the prawn toast, which riffs on an Australian-Chinese staple, but with meaty Gulf prawns headlining and Davidson’s plum lending tartness. Or scone-like doughnuts with rhubarb jam that let you play Country Women’s Association, just with buttermilk gelato instead of cream.

There might be bavette on the barbie, corn grilled in the husk with feta, and lamb cooked over coals to a rosy medium-rare. Windows frame the Opera House, wine leans local, and King George whiting, with just good oil and soft herbs, strips things back to the essential – as does a recent menu reshuffle pitching three courses and snacks.