Yakiniku (the grilling of meat) plays a pivotal part in Japanese dining culture, and this is one of Sydney’s better spots to cook your own wagyu over fire.

There’s buttery A5 Kagoshima beef if you’re willing to spend top dollar, but most guests gravitate towards the signature platter – a one-way ticket to all the menu favourites. Start with house specialty ox tongue before a journey through different cuts of wagyu beef and pork.

Two excellent house dipping sauces are offered, including a barbecue number brimming with soulful sweetness, plus a blend of pepper, lemon and secret ingredients, while cold soba and yukke (Japan’s spin on Korea’s own beef tartare) are refreshing pit-stops among the grilling.

Yakiniku restaurants in Tokyo can get rowdy, but here the hum of families is likely to drown out clinking glasses, even if there are plenty of whisky highballs and lagers in sight.