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These two new venues have made Crown that one thing it’s never really been before – cool

The casino has partnered with Toddy Shop’s Mischa Tropp on an Indian diner and sports bar, and DJ-turned-restaurateur Grant Smillie on a riverside bar with Cali vibes.

Tomas Telegramma
Tomas Telegramma

Crown is turning into a destination for more Melburnians, according to Toddy Shop owner-chef Mischa Tropp, who’s contributing to the casino’s evolution with the opening last week of Kolkata Cricket Club, a 160-seat Indian restaurant and sports bar.

“The more venues that feel individual [at Crown] ... the better,” says Tropp.

Mischa Tropp is part of a changing of the guard at Crown Melbourne.
Mischa Tropp is part of a changing of the guard at Crown Melbourne.Chege Mbuthi

It’s a sentiment echoed by DJ-turned-restaurateur Grant Smillie, who’s set to unveil California-inspired riverside bar Marmont in the former Rosetta site on December 18.

“We just want to create new interest – and a new injection of energy – for the precinct,” says Smillie, hinting that there is more change to come. “We’re the tip of the iceberg.”

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Here’s what you need to know about Crown Melbourne’s two new arrivals.

Kolkata Cricket Club spans two distinct spaces: a restaurant and a sporting bar showing cricket matches.
Kolkata Cricket Club spans two distinct spaces: a restaurant and a sporting bar showing cricket matches.Supplied

Kolkata Cricket Club

On level one, where San Antone by Bludso’s BBQ once was, this cricket-themed venue offers two distinct experiences. “It’s about giving people different reasons to come in,” says Tropp.

You enter through the laidback Sporting Bar, channelling the gymkhanas (sports clubs) of Kolkata. The idea is to perch at the rattan bar and watch cricket with a pint of house lager made in collaboration with Pirate Life, and snacks including beer-battered chips with curry sauce (a menu addition that’s coming soon).

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Two charcoal tandoors and a wood hearth take pride of place, servicing both the bar and the adjoining KCC Dining Room. A more buttoned-up space for feasting, the 80-seater’s walls are lined with black-and-white photos of former Indian cricketers.

Mischa Tropp’s signature butter chicken is making an appearance at Kolkata Cricket Club.
Mischa Tropp’s signature butter chicken is making an appearance at Kolkata Cricket Club.Supplied

While Tropp describes the menu as “pan-Indian”, Bengali dishes and influences star. “They’re not necessarily things people have had before, but they’re bloody delicious.”

He’s particularly excited about the mach posto, whole barramundi cooked in the tandoor and served with a rich curry of white poppy seeds and onions, and cheena badam bhindi, a dish of wood-fired okra with spiced peanuts. And of course, Tropp will be serving butter chicken, a recipe he’s been perfecting for years. “This is by far the best version,” he says.

The wine list includes a selection of Indian producers in Australia, such as Red Hill’s Avani.

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Open Wed-Thu & Sun 5pm-9pm, Fri-Sat 5pm-10pm

Level 1, Crown Melbourne, 8 Whiteman Street, Southbank, kolkatacricketclub.com

Riverside bar Marmont evokes the sunshine and glamour of Los Angeles.
Riverside bar Marmont evokes the sunshine and glamour of Los Angeles.Supplied

Marmont

Passersby on Southbank can’t miss the 200-seat Marmont. It’s smack-bang on the river, with massive windows that open up to the promenade. Little is left of Italian fine-diner Rosetta, says Smillie. Its replacement has an al fresco vibe reminiscent of E.P. & L.P. and Grandmaster Records, the hotspots that Melbourne native Smillie runs in Los Angeles.

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There’s a real all-day play here. Marmont is as much a spot for a speedy burger and beer at lunch as it is for sunset spritzes and snacks on the plucked-from-Palm-Springs patio. Boisterous Friday nights are soundtracked by some of the country’s top selectors.

What’s in your glass will likely be agave-based, including a pink-tinged but not-too-sweet margarita, and a mix of tequila, Campari and grapefruit juice called Hollywood Nights (which speaks to the 20-metre Jeffrey Phillips mural that depicts a glam Oscars ceremony).

The menu is the work of chef Mark Tagnipez, who was born and raised in LA but has worked at Supernormal and Fonda. Sydney rock oysters come with a “happy-accident” mignonette that uses pico de gallo wastage; Skull Island prawns are slathered in Calabrian-chilli butter; and pretzels with Old Bay-seasoned mud crab are a two-bite winner.

Open daily noon-late from Wednesday, December 18

Crown Riverwalk, Crown Melbourne, 8 Whiteman Street, Southbank, instagram.com/marmontbar

Tomas TelegrammaTomas Telegramma is a food, drinks and culture writer.

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Original URL: https://www.watoday.com.au/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/these-two-new-venues-have-made-crown-that-one-thing-it-s-never-really-been-before-cool-20241212-p5kxz6.html