The latest addition to Bright's lively eating and drinking scene, Tani boasts wide verandahs, and a spacious dining room with white walls, black-framed windows and doors, black leather chairs and timber-topped tables. It's faintly Japanese in its influences, as is the food, with accents of soy, sake and nori, and scant use of dairy products. Knowledgeable, enthusiastic waiters offer a choice of small plates and larger dishes, or set menu options, which start at four courses. There's a Japanese sensibility to the seasonal menu, too, which changes according to the availability of largely regional ingredients. The cooking style is contemporary, with flavours and textures effortlessly playing together like musical instruments. Perhaps start with compressed watermelon served with house-made feta and grains; or cured kingfish with a lemon emulsion, daikon strips and apple sorbet. Steaks and brined chicken make simpler main courses. Desserts are brilliant. maybe a bitter chocolate cream with anise-spiced vanilla ice-cream, porter-marinated cherries and cherry 'dust'.