There’s been no looking back since Sarti’s smart New York, ’50s style rejig and the appointment of chef Paolo Masciopinto in 2013. His inspired menu accomplishes educated twists on Italian classics without seeming try-hard. Case in point: a sublime take on vitello tonnato where thinly draped slices of perfectly pink veal are nestled between creamy orbs of salty tuna foam and tangy bits of pickled onion. Meanwhile, a stuzzichino (small dish) of Canadian scallop – plump and nicely browned – comes in a half-shell of salty-sweet corn puree and is elevated to great heights with a judicious sprinkle of aromatic truffle powder. Specials might include excellent house-made beetroot pappardelle, scattered with crumbled quail sausage and a textural and aromatic combo of parmesan foam and toasted pinenuts. Service is perceptive, wine matches readily forthcoming, and desserts, such as a beautifully plated white chocolate mousse with seasonal peaches, raspberries and lemon verbena sorbet, show a keen eye for delicacy and balance.

And … The lunch special will get you any three stuzzichini plus a pasta for $40 a head.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Buzzy laneway clubhouse.
Best bit Rooftop deck, surrounded by city lights.
Worst bit Can get rowdy.