Having chef Matt Wilkinson doing amazing brunch and lunch in an obscure Brunswick strip always seemed, to the rest of Melbourne, a bit of an unfair coup. Now having a crack at dinners, the Pope-by-night lends itself to cosy, low-lit casual dining, and Wilkinson's signature produce-driven style translates beautifully, too. The night-time menu showcases Wilkinson's not-so-secret affair with all things fresh, seasonal and local; a properly al dente ravioli of pea, aromatic mint and mascarpone finished with sage brown butter is a blessing, while crumb-coated chicken kiev, oozing garlic butter when cut, restores the reputation of this once-naff dish. Salads feature prominently - things like crab, spinach and bottarga with the surprising, oceanic tang of samphire, and desserts are no afterthought. Service is warm and informed, and the mood is that of a relaxed and big-hearted neighbourhood gem that seriously delivers.