Despite its blue-blood locale on the ground floor of a luxury apartment development, there's nothing too uptight about GG. Taking in several dining zones and with killer views over the Fitzroy Gardens (and CBD lights at night), the sprawling, well-designed space has a broody, masculine presence. Chef Paul Dunlop is on board after running the kitchens at Bistro Thierry and St Katherine's; it's fair to say he gets the classy neighbourhood bistro thing. Dunlop's accessible, Italian-leaning menu is great for sharing, and dishes such as sesame-flecked crab beignets with Thai-inspired coriander, chilli and pink grapefruit dressing prove that he can ably balance flavours outside the Euro zone, too. Mains such as perfectly pink lamb (neck and cutlets) with sweet shallot puree and black garlic nail it with generous portion size, terrific flavours and gorgeous plating. Artfully presented desserts such as brulee-topped custard tart with paper-fine discs of dehydrated apple are no afterthought, while service is warm and suitably tuned in.