Some excellent dining experiences are not solely food-focused. At Entrecote, the Parisian brasserie conjured by Jason Jones and Brahman Perera, the visual and aural are as crucial as the edible.

The enormous space is beautifully divided for intimacy via tiles, marble, chandeliers, curtains and comfortable banquettes. A grand piano adds further theatrics, as does the enthusiastic pianist.

There’s a commitment to theme on the menu, too: punchy beef tartare, well-executed confit duck, slightly under-seasoned onion soup, garlic snails. A solid steak frites is smothered in assertive, tarragon-forward herb butter sauce and the creme brulee is jumbo-sized.

The wine list leans French and is assembled with an eye on price. Service can be patchy, a part of the Parisian equation that perhaps didn’t need emulating, but as an escape from the real word, Entrecote is hard to beat.