Weekend crowds infuse this Balaclava shopfront with a rowdy izakaya vibe but midweek reveals a low-key neighbourhood place where couples debrief and solo diners might bring a good book. All the better to contemplate the recent renos (the ceiling features traditional craftsmanship courtesy of two brothers from Kyoto) and the artistry of head chef Kota Ogawa. This might include the textural interplay of kingfish carpaccio enveloping slices of crisp turnip, daubed with tangy miso vinaigrette, or a tremulous cube of ponzu jelly waiting to be wrapped in a slice of wagyu tataki and shiso leaf. There's also good, plain fun. wagyu reappears in a chunky meatball hiding an oozing cheese centre; with sweet soy and wasabi mayo it's the Japanese answer to the cheeseburger. Gracious staff might deliver that dish before a lighter, tempura-bound tangle of edamame and salmon chunks, but such is the izakaya way. Excellent sake or a crisp Spanish rose will help maintain your Zen.