You won't find a spruiker outside Bamboo House, even on the quietest of days, but inside you'll regularly spot business leaders, pollies or families out for a special night. While the city's culinary tastes may have changed over the past 30-odd years, Bamboo House's hasn't - and that's part of its charm. At this classic Chinese restaurant, waiters in black hover discreetly, dishes are delivered swiftly on to starched linen tablecloths and deftly plated into individual serves. The menu's split between classic Cantonese and spicier northern Chinese. Begin with chicken soused in a superior rice wine or crunchy Beijing style. The tea-smoked duck (marinated, steamed, smoked, then fried) is a speciality, while the market fish (perhaps a fillet of ling) comes steamed in classic soy, ginger and spring onion. Lamb cutlets are dusted in five-spice and fried. The desserts - including fried bananas and red-bean cakes - are in keeping with tradition.