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Two years after the closure of Isme in Fitzroy in 2022, chef Joseph Rahme reignited the contemporary Middle Eastern diner within a sleek corner site in Thornbury, just next door to his focaccia bar Juju’s Deli (also in South Melbourne).

HSP bites are Rahme’s sophisticated take on the late-night kebab shop favourite. Crisp potato sandwiched with lamb and onion, plus carefully piped layers of chilli and garlic sauces, bring the typical HSP flavours to the fore, while mint cuts through the richness. The stack is finished off with a flurry of freshly grated cheese.

Crowd favourites from the Fitzroy eatery have also made their way over to Thornbury, like cheese-filled filo cigars, and bite-sized dumplings filled with spicy sujuk sausage and lathered in Turkish chilli butter and labne.

But the stars of the show are undoubtedly the dishes that come from the roaring wood-fire oven, on full display in the open kitchen. Barbecued flatbread is a no-brainer; it’s served brushed with toum (garlic dip) and sprinkled with zaatar, but it’s also great for swiping through creamy labne soaked with chilli oil.

As for cocktails, Isme’s espresso martini – using Tia Maria and espresso by Melbourne coffee roasters Zest – is perfect for wintery evenings, while a vanilla-laced rose, sake and yuzu number is a year-round must-try. And for those who prefer to drink their dessert, don’t go past Le Beirut. Vodka, passionfruit and lemon are shaken into a frothy concoction with egg white, then sprinkled with white chocolate dust.

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