There’s always a sense of the new to enliven the tried and true at this Canberra institution, by way of the daily specials. Whether a response to seasonal goods, the kitchen’s creative urge or a reworking of an old favourite, it doesn’t matter. Certainly not when garfish tastes as fresh and delicate as this version, deboned and filleted, dusted in semolina, pan-fried and served with a bright fennel and dill salad. The star dish is a char-grilled, spice-rubbed roast chicken which arrives succulent with yoghurt and salad, offering alternate cooling and crunch on the side. Regulars will recognise kingfish skewers, aromatic with bay and also char-grilled. Alluring pomegranate ice-cream and morello cherry sauce add verve to baked custard. The large, glassed, conservatory-like dining room is comfortable and surprisingly private, decorated in pale blue and grey. Pretty references to Turkey abound: the bowl of Turkish delight at the reception desk a sweet touch.

And … The exquisite tiled basins in the bathroom.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Elegant hotel lobby with full-flavoured food.
Best bit Respect for ingredients.
Worst bit Memory lapse when listening to specials.