A lone flame lantern on Macrossan Street marks the hidden entrance to Nautilus, where a path winds up the hill into lush rainforest, ending at a magical maze of dramatically lit outdoor dining rooms. The kitchen has the unenviable task of matching expectations set by the magnificent setting but first bite of a feathery-light smoked paprika and caramelised onion souffle confirms they are equal to the task. Delicate, braised-duck ravioli with sweet saffron jam and cinnamon bark veloute is subtle and flavoursome. Mains balance classic European and Asian influences, including crisp-skinned Muscovy duck with a light green mango salad and fragrant Thai basil and spiced orange jus. Desserts follow a theme of traditional French meets the tropics, such as white chocolate fondant with orange blossom jelly, and a caramelised banana and mascarpone cheesecake with chocolate peanut-butter ice-cream. As we went to print, the former chef had left and restaurant manager Aron Michielli had stepped into the breach.