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Waltzing into Scopri’s trattoria-style dining room is wonderfully transportive. Tables are dressed in stiff white linen, and with each new entrant the sound of “buonasera, buonasera” echoes in the air.

Dapper lifetime waiters offer expert pronunciation of wines from amaranta to zenato, and offload a verbal list of specials so detailed you might want a notepad yourself. Risotto is stained green from zucchini and topped with flecks of blue swimmer crab.

Golfball-sized tortelloni come filled with sweet pumpkin and slicked with burnt butter. Goat is slow-simmered, resulting in a meaty broth that’ll put the complimentary bread basket to work.

Almost everyone orders tiramisu, but consider breaking formation for the baked-to-order chocolate torte with a molten centre. If you’re not ready to call it a night after all that, head to sister enoteca Bar Olo just a few steps up the road.