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Heading into its eighth year under that unmistakable spray-painted sign, the latest iteration of Bar Liberty spotlights head chef Zackary Furst’s Polish roots.

Pert potato dumplings cradle puddles of dill oil and burnt butter. They arrive atop a Bay of Fires cheddar emulsion, with a little cayenne kick from the spice mix pieprz ziolowy. A smoked and grilled pork chop comes bathed in mustard seed beurre blanc, served with jammy quince compote.

Tender chicken meatballs repose in tarragon-spiked bread sauce. And who else but Furst could reclaim kabanosy so assuredly? The smoky, majestic snap of house-made sausage elevates this childhood fave.

The menu’s comforting flavours fit wines from the genre-bending list like a perfectly tailored suit, and razor-sharp service delights with every pour. Liberty’s sleek dining room remains a beacon for good reason.