If Kisume is Japanese-inspired dining with the volume turned up, the Chef ’s Table – a horseshoe-shaped bar upstairs for a handful of guests – turns it up to 11. We’re not talking noisy. We’re talking extra.

Instead of, say, a picture of Mount Fuji, you’ve got a woman posing for provocateur photographer Nobuyoshi Araki (a different take on the Japanese art of restraint, if you will).

The 16-course tasting menu isn’t afraid of fun. There’s chawanmushi and elegantly draped nigiri of hapuka, kingfish and alfonsino. But there’s also scallop in beurre blanc dotted with caviar, a gorgeous little sando of golden scampi fishcake and tartare sauce, and duck expertly roasted on its crown with a flattering accent of sansho and mandarin.

Every diner has a phone at the ready, and the chef plays it to the nines – or right up to 11.