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Though this concrete-lined room might seem dim when you first bed down at one of its 12 counter seats, flashes of tempura batter bubbling in oil quickly light the place up.

Slices of Tasmanian abalone wear a crisp shell, awaiting their dive into a candle-warmed pot of miso-spiked ponzu; tempura nori is heaped with braised ox tongue, a domino of grilled foie gras and a mountain of pecorino shavings; flaky flathead tails come to life with a dusting of curry salt and a slap of anchovy laden ketchup.

But while chef Kensuke Yada’s omakase menu is built around fried delights, the brightest moment arrives via his immaculate chawanmushi, anointed with a dash of bisque just warm enough to take the rawness off a jumble of sweet prawns. With a sip of sake from the comprehensive drinks list, it’s a moment that could illuminate even the darkest room.