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At $14, Esteban’s taco al pastor might be Sydney’s most expensive, but it’s also the city’s best – the corn tortilla pressed by hand in house, the pork and pineapple precisely spit-roasted.

That same degree of refinement is there across the menu, from the smoky depth of a black bean and eggplant tostada to the gentle char and tenderness of calamari dialled up with salsa verde, seafood mole and bottarga. Juicy grilled chicken set on a pool of tinga sauce, meanwhile, proves that things hot off the custom parrilla are also a high point.

Service is eager and invested; the split-level space sexy and dark; and if the heaving back bar and free-flowing cocktails don’t quite clue you in on what to drink, take your cue from the energetic mariachi duo that sometimes roams the floor: Tequila!