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Samesyn spent much of last year closed while chef-owner Graham Jefferies transformed it into a for-purpose enterprise that gives profits to a local charity, cooks with rejected imperfect produce, and aims for a zero-waste kitchen.

There’s no bin, just compost and recycling. Menus are on a wooden board or your phone. The restaurant even makes its own air freshener and soap.

The mission may be marvellous, but is the food any good? It’s better. Oysters are dressed with whey – a byproduct of the kitchen’s cheesemaking – and foraged beach herbs. Dehydrated carrots are soaked in reduced carrot juice to create a chewy snack that has more carrot mojo than you thought possible.

Old pals banana and caramel are revived in a dessert that uses excess milk and every part of overripe bananas to delicious effect. The creativity is startling – grab a front-row seat.