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The husband-and-wife team behind Ranong Town say some customers travel hours for their dishes, and it’s easy to understand why. Pad see ew is dark, saucy and textural, with springy tofu, chewy rice noodles and a liberal dusting of white pepper.

Hefty blocks of pork belly get a hint of char, crunch from Chinese broccoli and – if you so desire – a whack of chilli heat big enough to clean out your sinuses as powerfully as it reels you back in for more. Lychee and cherry tomatoes studding a red curry nicely counter fall-apart roast duck leg.

On a quiet suburban street, the unassuming shopfront was a milk bar for 40 years before a modest upgrade to this canteen-style dining room. Expect to order by QR code and sit on brightly coloured metal chairs, soundtracked by the thwack of woks from the kitchen.