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In this warm-toned timber space, home-style cooking is celebrated in hansik sets (hot dish, soup, rice) that easily shift from day to night. For lunch, yukhoe (raw beef and nashi pear) is served simply over rice.

At dinner, it’s dressed in a little seaweed straitjacket with a side of crunchy pickled onions. There are more delights across the menu. Soy-braised wombok, piled high like petticoats, is topped with minced potato chips and chilli. Deboned chicken wings kissed by charcoal burst with finely chopped pork. Perilla leaves are bountiful; use them to pick up charred pork neck and sticky ssamjang.

Flavour profiles of small-batch soju and cheongju rice wine are broken down in detail on the tidy menu to hold the hands of the uninitiated, complemented by razor-sharp recommendations from staff.