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This home-style lunch spot is on an industrial corner block, flanked by car detailers and print shops. Inside, dolsot (the Korean earthenware pots) are delivered to tables at alarming temperatures.

They’re filled with kimchi jjigae or beef rib soup – four large ribs on the bone, rice cakes and potato – all teamed with banchan: perhaps stir-fried potato, spicy marinated tofu, and spring onion kimchi. Lunch sets might hold tofu-kimchi soup, grilled mackerel, ssamjang, rice and egg.

Japchae, the glass noodle dish, can be customised with a mixture of pickled and braised vegetables. The neat room is light and bright, dotted with white tables. A steady stream of patrons makes keeps the room abuzz, many of them here to pick up frozen soup or bulgogi to take home from the large chest freezer.