There’s something special about restaurants where one owner runs the floor and the other the kitchen. In the country, it’s a bonus if they happen to be locally born and bred, and have strong hospitality credentials.

From a heritage building, Matthieu and Erica Miller run a coffee window, sell take home meals, host a monthly locals’ dinner at bargain prices, and operate this European-leaning restaurant. There’s a clear bent towards northeastern produce.

Smoked duck from nearby Milawa is sliced to resemble bacon rashers, resting on a pale golden celeriac hash brown. Brittle-skinned pork belly from just across the border gets a Sicilian edge from well-balanced agrodolce sauce that’s busy with raisins and pine nuts. Rice pudding is studded with pecans, Turkish delight and blood orange.

From Beechworth chardonnay to Rutherglen apera (local sherry), Grace is fiercely local. But its warm embrace extends to all.