Shanxi cuisine is known for its dough-based delicacies, and Dao Noodle is a prime spot to experience that skill in Melbourne. Every strand of the signature dao xiao mian (knife-shaved noodles) is a revelation of texture, from thick, chewy centre to frilly, translucent edges. It’s a very different mouthfeel from pulled, pinched or rolled noodles.

The traditional topping of pork mince, tomato and eggplant is comforting in its rustic simplicity, while beef noodle soup is layered with flavour: the meat slow-cooked until it practically melts, overlaid with the warming sweetness of star anise. A snack of braised pig ear is another wonder, at once slippery, tender, crunchy and sticky.

Those new to Shanxi cuisine will appreciate the subtlety of the fine knife work and teasing aromas, while aficionados should feel satisfied with this well-crafted and accessible representation.