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The room ain’t huge. There are no trolleys. The food is cooked to order. The family-run Chef Wong is not your typical yum cha place and yet it might be the state’s best, at least judged on the food.

There’s bouncy siu mai. Airy-light prawn dumplings. Tender chicken feet. Radish cakes crisp of edge and deep of flavour. Powerfully savoury pork ribs. And daan tat, the Hong Kong egg tart, of remarkable finesse and squish. All this in a tiled room that’s barely a few square metres in size (and that includes the freezers full of dumplings you can take home).

If you’re the kind of person who’s driven mad by being served dumplings in threes when you’re at a table of two or four, you’re in for a treat: you order by the piece. This is dim sum of a higher order.