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Bottarga

Outstanding fusion headlined by fine wine.

Gorgonzola ice cream with cherry compote.
1 / 8Gorgonzola ice cream with cherry compote.Supplied
Bottarga offers a daily apertivo and snack menu.
2 / 8Bottarga offers a daily apertivo and snack menu.Supplied
Bottarga in Brighton
3 / 8Bottarga in BrightonSupplied
Cuttlefish ink and lime linguine with spanner crab.
4 / 8Cuttlefish ink and lime linguine with spanner crab.Bonnie Savage
Culurgiones in Thai red curry.
5 / 8Culurgiones in Thai red curry.Bonnie Savage
Mushroom and comte pithivier..
6 / 8Mushroom and comte pithivier..Bonnie Savage
Akoya oysters with garlic “pearls”.
7 / 8Akoya oysters with garlic “pearls”.Bonnie Savage
Burratina with braised onion and fennel.
8 / 8Burratina with braised onion and fennel.Bonnie Savage

Good Food hat15/20

Italian$$

Two words: gorgonzola gelato. It shouldn’t work but it does, particularly teamed with sticky cherry jam in a box of shortcrust chocolate pastry.

It’s the kind of culinary wizardry this 18-seater seems to churn out with its eyes closed. Bare concrete and black marble set the stage for Italian-born chef-owner Federico Bizzaro, who interlaces Asian and Australian flavours with those of his motherland.

Silky scallop crudo pairs with a shock of hot-pink whipped karasumi (the Japanese dried mullet roe) bolstered by native lime, samphire and karkalla. Fennel and Geraldton wax punctuate fresh burrata, while beautifully formed tortelli are filled with creamy squacquerone and stinging nettles.

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Golden chicken breast is stuffed with rabbit farce and drizzled in shiitake and shimeji jus. Efficient owner-sommelier Somi Paremanee cleverly pairs it with a chianti from a small Tuscan vineyard.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/vic-good-food-guide/bottarga-20240418-p5fkx1.html