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Duck a l’orange: retro, cloying, fussy? Not here. Forget the Women’s Weekly associations and follow the lead of well-groomed locals at this modern French charmer.

Get comfy on a plush turquoise banquette, choose a whole or half duck, add a smashable Cotes du Rhone cinsault and maybe a cheeky side of frites. The showpiece bird comes as both tender, rosy breast under skin with impressive crunch, and confit legs roasted over seasonally tweaked sides (perhaps prunes and carrots slow-cooked to electric-orange jamminess).

It’s deceptively simple cooking, delivered with more panache than Plume’s unassuming facade in the Geelong suburbs suggests. Entrees are just as faultless, whether butterflied grilled tiger prawns under a blanket of prosciutto butter or airy duck liver parfait with zingy pear chutney. Stick with tradition for dessert: generously proportioned creme brulee.