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Those in the know don’t go to Benyue without putting away a few signatures. Cumin-scented lamb spring rolls, chicken and prawn siu mai, and flash-fried salt and pepper calamari are all perfected to final boss form.

Beyond the cult faves there’s plenty more precision. Spanner crab meat is tossed with eggs for a cloud like omelette, served with nothing more than soy and salt. Angus eye fillet slices are skilfully stir-fried to medium-rare, splayed over the greens of the season and finished with a glistening pepper sauce. Spatchcock is poached low and slow with aniseed and cassia, finished with sweet soy.

Arched dividing walls section off the roomy space into nooks regularly booked out by groups. Confident, familiar Uncles are a helpful assist while ordering, whether you’re already in the know or just about to be.