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In a hamlet as diverse and discerning as Yarraville Village, Bar Romanee must be many things to many diners. A snack stop ahead of a Sun Theatre session. A place for a kid-friendly lunch, or a date night in appropriately dim light.

No matter the brief, chef Anna Quayle’s refined bistro cooking delivers. A bronzed puck of crumbed black pudding cracks pleasingly, topped with a gooey fried egg and served with verdant pickled zucchini. Hand-cut bucatini luxuriates in a buttery XO clam bath. A generous chicken breast main goes some ways to redeeming the oft-demonised cut: juicy and golden, supported by sweetcorn puree and a textbook jus gras.

Service takes the form of a tenured, steady hand adept at dissecting the largely Old World, French-leaning wine list. A sturdy, reliable slice of village life.