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Passers-by often do a double take outside this striking top-end-of-town restaurant, because until 2023 it was a humble Priceline pharmacy. Now it shares DNA with siblings Sunda and Aru: industrial-chic fitout, swanky drinks, imaginative menu.

Here the other is built around a wood-fired oven and adjoining bakery. Beneath five-metre ceilings, the open kitchen prepares everything from morning croissants to late suppers.

House-baked sourdough stars in many dishes. “Chicken on toast” is a half-bird roasted on crusty bread, with a jus of tarragon and piquant apple vinegar. Anchovy and tomato tartine comes with a chilli kick. The best dishes marry top-notch produce with full flavours, as seen in tender grilled southern calamari with fennel.

Some of the venue’s 125 seats may be unforgiving, but stay put for sweet and savoury rewards such as a clever apricot and tete de moine tart that bridges cheese and dessert.