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You wouldn’t know it going by the look of this chic diner, but there’s a pasta marathon going on most nights.

Mains come in mighty portions and – other than a single steak – are pure carbs. Some challenge tradition, such as spaghetti coated in velvety mussel emulsion with jolts of ’nduja. Others are more familiar, say a giant gorgonzola raviolo with pickled walnut vinaigrette to counter its cheesy filling.

If back-to-back pasta is too much, there’s crusty gnocco fritto with ruffles of prosciutto for wrapping, or charred beef carpaccio laid over smoked oyster dressing for a new take on surf and turf.

Gleaming terrazzo floors are matched by polished service and a swish Italian-focused wine list. No wonder tables are snapped up. Finish with a hunk of tiramisu, your reward for all that carb-loading.