First of all – yes, there are four sisters. The Yazar family’s Safiye, Nurten, Ayse and Fatma bring different skills in cooking and business but they share one thing: they were raised by their mum, Elif, a talented home cook who has passed on a deft touch for flavour.

At breakfast, there’s menemen (baked eggs with green pepper and tomato) and a four-cheese gozleme. Soups such as tripe, lentil and lamb shank each have their fans.

There’s subtle brilliance in the Iskender kebab, which layers slivers of grilled lamb over fried bread with clarified butter and house-made tomato paste. As well as traditional walnut baklava, there are quirky change-ups with peanut butter, coconut, even tahini.

The petrol station location is unassuming, but 4 Sisters is an accessible, welcoming cove for anyone in need of refuelling.