On a wintry Highlands evening, Milton Park comes into its own. Drive through the grand entrance with its towering trees and sweeping driveways and wind up at the stately manor that was once home to the Anthony Hordern's department store family. Looped curtains and gold velvet set the scene in the softly carpeted and candled dining room where your table awaits, your name inscribed on a place card. Long, crusty slices of soft, warm bread are just the thing with hot, sweet, chunky onion soup, lorded over by a cheesy crouton. Scallops with cauliflower and asparagus were without excitement, however, and duck with cabbage and speck lacked contrasting tang and spark. Well-cooked lamb melts into a sticky, sweet sauce with spinach and a little eggplant mash. Highlights, as your waitress may confide, are a great rendition of caramelly tarte tatin or a cosy blueberry clafoutis with blueberry ice-cream. Accolades also go to the extensive wine list and sensible wine service.