Cavallino's name ('little horse') gives a nod to its very equine northern forest locale. The look is country ranch with beams and sandstone but it's all about regional integrity when it comes to the food. The central wood-fired oven and salumi bar breathe seriousness. From the oven, pizza al rosmarino is thin, satisfyingly scorched and perfectly salty. There are many interesting and flavourful pizza options, but there's more to this menu. Risotto nero with cuttlefish and seafood bisque is memorably rich, flavourful, buttery and flowing. Guancia di manzo (beef cheek) and braised witlof has melting texture, a sticky, dark, jewel-like sauce with slightly bitter witlof that's a foil to the richness. Dentice al forno (baked snapper) with lemon, mustard and oregano is brilliant, still pearly and fresh as if just caught. Torta d'amaretto with creme caramel ice-cream and orange reduction is true to its Sicilian origin but is not the go-to dish of the menu. Pizza with Nutella, perhaps?