It’s a thrill to climb the stairs to this welcoming dining room, with high ceilings and huge windows that open to the night sky when it’s balmy. Owner David Sutherland is a wine nut: rioja makes an earthy pairing with wild rabbit pie and mushy peas, while vouvray dances with pork – kassler, hock and sausage with red cabbage and apple. Dessert might be pear and blue cheese tart matched with a honey-coloured semillon-sauvignon blanc.