White tiles and a frying station, baskets-full of chips ready for dunking and a knot of takeaway customers lolling outside make this the classic beachside chipper. Only it isn't, since dim lighting, a Chilli Peppers soundtrack and a more than decent by-the-glass wine selection up the ante. Then there's the food. Whether it's made-to-order sushi rolls or finely beer-battered fingers of hoki and chips (fabulous chips they are, too), this could truly be Bondi's best. Oven-baked bass grouper is firm and flaky, crisp-skinned gemfish is sweet and just set. Sides can be beetroot and green beans; rocket and parmesan; crushed whole spuds with chilli-lemon oil - or those fabulous chips.