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In a suburb where the fish-and-chipper has the greatest after-dark pull, it’s big news when a modern izakaya rolls in. Enter this unpretentious, intimate diner that serves Japanese classics alongside easy-on-the-purse wines and sake, and not a matcha cocktail in sight.

Pork gyoza are plump and crisp, miso-glazed eggplant is generous and not too jammy, arriving as four sesame-covered quarters, while teriyaki chicken does exactly what it says on the tin.

Sushi and sashimi play a similarly crowd-pleasing tune with rolls tightly filled with chilli-jam tuna and soft-shell crab delivering on texture, freshness and fun.

“Wa Gyuto” refers to a chef’s knife rather than a cut of beef, although the marbled meat appears twice on the menu, too. Crowd or date night, it’s game, set, snack here.