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With a menu in inverse proportion to its teeny physical footprint, Gaku roams a maze of Tokyo backstreets by way of raw, fried and grilled izakaya fare with a lick of French luxury.

You might venture deep into sashimi territory via the subtleties of toro and akami tuna cuts, dial up the decadence with slices of prime wagyu or hand rolls filled with truffle and foie gras, or matchmake a crisp sparkling sake with karaage chicken.

At the counter you’re up close to the grill where chef owners Haru Inukai and Shimon Hanakura crank up the robata and meats, vegetables and fish become their best selves: lamb ribs turn soft and sticky in miso glaze, and toothfish collar chars into a finger-licking melt of meaty juices, the richness cut with lime. Don’t skip lunchtime ramen, either, so popular it often sells out.