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Grab a seat on the verandah of this former bank, order a cocktail and relax. Fiume is best enjoyed as a laid-back trip through balanced, Italian-inspired dishes – what’s the hurry to get back to the hotel or to the next town? Cheerful waitstaff know their way around the highlights of chef Meg Black’s menu, such as local veal tongue and lemon sliced paper-thin and drizzled with a creamy tonnato sauce, then ramped up with anchovies and flower-like fried capers: a powerhouse of flavour. White anchovies, meanwhile, arrive in lemon oil and are topped with berry-sweet dried olives and crunchy half-moons of celery heart. Pair butter-glossed bonito with a currant and cabbage salad, and consider another drink as the sun rounds the deck and spills into the high-ceilinged dining room. A place of simple pleasures.