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It’s easy enough to imagine busting outta the city, taking the lease on an old pizza shop and building the restaurant you always dreamed of. But when you see a couple of people, in this case former Bentley chefs, who’ve actually made it happen, it hits you how rare and special it is to pull it off.

Inside a handsome space on Windsor’s main strip, the wood oven burns hot. Alessio Nogarotto pours Italian grape varieties he loves to drink and mixes pitch-perfect negronis, while Giles Gabutina slips oysters topped with housemade pancetta into the oven, then uses it to crisp Jerusalem artichokes to be topped with pear, pecorino and burnt honey.

Tartare gets a puttanesca twist, pickled mussels come with paprika dusted chips and anchovies bring edge to pork cotoletta. It’s smart, striking and packed with charm. But most of all, it’s personal. All this in Windsor? Believe it.