Much like Beppi’s, Buon Ricordo exists in its own private universe of la vera cucina, founded by Armando Percuoco in 1987 and sold to his long-time head chef David Wright five years ago. The truffled egg fettuccine remains a go-to for first-timers, but it’s Wright’s more modern creations that keep the regulars coming back.

• As featured in Sydney’s most iconic restaurants