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Here’s a place in which you can stay from opening snacks to last drinks and never become bored.

If a local DJ isn’t on the decks, staff will be spinning their own choice of jazz, blues or rock, and there’s always something new on the cocktail list. A rye-based Toronto popularised in the 1920s, say, or a house creation combining whisky, pisco and camomile soda.

The kitchen knows how to hold your interest too, from beef-tongue skewers powered by anchovy mayo, to a warming blood plum frangipane tart. Snapper fillet, perfectly blistered by a charcoal grill, is lifted with vadouvan spices that ask for a Loire Valley chenin blanc, while wagyu skirt sharpened by tomatillo chimichurri loves any Canberra District red from the far-reaching list.

All the better if you can nab a seat by the fireplace, or one of the candlelit racing green booths.