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If you’re a solo traveller in Canberra’s CBD, and jonesing for a tall glass of red and no-nonsense pasta, this Sydney Building newcomer has your number.

That wine might be a Barolo with a nice bit of age; the pasta, tagliatelle with a juicy rubble of pork and veal bolognese bianco fortified with pancetta under a snowfall of parmesan.

Bada Bing does a lot of things right, from the wood-panelled interiors, reminiscent of a 1990s Sizzler, to balanced negronis, to blistered cannoli filled with whipped ricotta to order.

Couples can hunker down with pappardelle and long-flavoured lamb ragu, and a hulking veal parmigiana splodged with buffalo mozzarella and covered from edge to crunchy edge in fruity sugo.

Pizza, meanwhile, is properly leopard-spotted at the puffy rim and the diavola – loaded with sopressa, ’nduja and extra chilli – is properly spicy. Bada boom.