Athos looks like any other suburban cafe in Melbourne: tables and chairs sit outside, people in activewear come and go, and a glass cabinet holds large trays of salads and pastries. But beneath all that, there’s an unwavering dedication to old-school Greek recipes and ultra-fresh produce – and the humble surroundings only amplify the feeling of striking gold.

Tucked on a side street in Strathmore in Melbourne’s north, Athos is the latest project of owners John and Susie Rerakis, who have championed home-style Greek cooking for more than 30 years at Philhellene in Moonee Ponds and, before that, Piraeus Blues in Fitzroy.

John grows his own vine leaves for dolmades, forages for wild greens and mushrooms, and has planted zucchini at the back of the cafe. He picks the flowers each morning and stuffs them with rice and herbs, which he also grows at home.

Freshness is like a religion for the couple. “It’s unbelievable the stuff that gets served [elsewhere],” John says.

Athos was supposed to slow down the pace for John and Susie, who sold Philhellene last year after staff shortages caused by the pandemic took their toll. But their new cafe heaves with people who want homemade spanakopita, take-home moussaka and sticky-sweet orange cakes.

“It’s an honour to be opening the doors and know people who support you,” says John.

Their cafe is another addition to Melbourne’s buzzing Greek dining scene, which surged in the past 12 months with newcomers including modern Athens-inspired Tzaki, homely Astoria, and pop-up-turned-restaurant Taverna. All are united by owners who want to redefine perceptions of their cuisine.

“Mixed grills, platters – that’s never the way Greeks have eaten,” says John.

“Where’s the a la carte? Where’s the seasonal? That was our inspiration.”

The menu brims with choices. An all-day breakfast line-up includes a northern Greek-influenced dish of fried eggs, potato, beef sausage sujuk (also key to Turkish cuisine) and ring-shaped kolouri bread. Reliable cafe-style dishes include baked eggs, omelettes and boiled eggs with pickles, cured salmon and whipped feta.

Colourful salads feature herbs, pickles, roasted vegetables, grains and lentils, which John says draw a big vegan crowd. “[Although] we don’t deliberately go out and cook vegan food. It’s just Greek food. It’s what we used to eat.”

The lengthy specials board offers everything from house-made falafel with yoghurt and focaccia to two types of bougatsa, the filo pastry dish most commonly seen in Australia with a sweet custard filling.

Sometimes, the roasted kid goat from the couple’s Piraeus Blues days appears; in winter, you’ll likely see Philhellene’s rabbit stifado, a long-cooked stew with red wine and onions.

Staying with the theme, drinks include cafe freddo, the iced Greek coffee that’s shaken until frothy. Get it in cappuccino form with a dense cap of snow-white foam or as an espresso.

Breakfast and lunch Tuesday-Sunday

8 Lloyd Street, Strathmore, instagram.com/athoscafedeli